It's not "Dandruff", it's Seborrheic Dermatitis

Many people live with what they call “dandruff” for years.
It flakes, it itches, it improves for a while — then comes back again.

So the cycle continues: stronger shampoos, more frequent washing, harsher treatments.

But sometimes, the issue isn’t dandruff at all.

Seborrheic dermatitis, often mistaken as 'serious dandruff'.

 

What if it’s seborrheic dermatitis?

Seborrheic dermatitis is a common inflammatory skin condition that affects areas rich in oil glands — including the scalp.

It often presents as:

• Flaking (sometimes oily, yellowish scales)
• Redness or irritation
• Itching or sensitivity

Because it looks similar to dandruff, it’s often treated the same way.
But scientifically, they are not quite the same.

Dandruff is considered a milder, non-inflammatory condition, while seborrheic dermatitis involves immune response and skin barrier disruption.

Research (Borda & Wikramanayake, 2015) suggests this condition is influenced by three key factors:

• Sebum (oil) production
• The presence of Malassezia yeast (part of the natural scalp microbiome)
• Individual immune response and skin barrier integrity

Research suggests Seborrheic Dermatitis and Dandruff are two fundamentally different scalp conditions. 

Why conventional dandruff shampoos don’t always work

If flakes are linked to yeast, then antifungal shampoos should solve the problem — right?

To some extent, they do.

Ingredients like zinc pyrithione and selenium sulfide, commonly found in anti-dandruff shampoos, are effective at reducing Malassezia levels. Studies show these ingredients can reduce visible flaking and microbial load.

This is why they often work well for classic dandruff (Leong et al., 2021).

But seborrheic dermatitis is more complex

Seborrheic dermatitis is not just about fungal overgrowth.

It involves a deeper imbalance between:

• The scalp microbiome (both yeast and bacteria)
• Sebum production
• The immune system
• The skin barrier

Research has shown that Malassezia exists on both healthy and affected scalps.
The difference lies in how the skin reacts to it (Draelos, 2018).

In dandruff:

• Mild imbalance
• Limited inflammation

In seborrheic dermatitis:

• Heightened immune response
• Barrier dysfunction
• Persistent inflammation

When treatment becomes part of the problem

Most conventional anti-dandruff shampoos focus on:

• Reducing yeast
• Removing flakes
• Controlling oil

But they are often formulated to be active and cleansing-focused, not necessarily barrier-supportive.

While they may provide temporary relief, studies show that symptoms often return once treatment stops,
suggesting that the underlying imbalance remains unresolved.

Repeated use of strong cleansing or medicated formulas may:

• Disrupt the scalp barrier
• Increase dryness and sensitivity
• Alter the natural microbiome balance

Research into the scalp microbiome shows that dandruff-affected scalps have shifts not only in yeast, but also in bacterial populations such as Staphylococcus species — highlighting that this is a multi-microbial ecosystem, not a single-cause condition (Clavaud et al., 2013).

Over time, this can create a cycle:
temporary control → increased sensitivity → recurring symptoms.

Shampoos made for dandruff don’t always work for seborrheic dermatitis.

Your scalp is skin — not just hair

We often treat the scalp very differently from the face.

On the face, we think about:
hydration, barrier repair, soothing inflammation.

On the scalp, we often:
strip, scrub, and over-correct.

But the scalp is an extension of your skin —
with hair follicles, sebaceous glands, and a delicate barrier that functions in a similar way.

When this barrier is disrupted,
the scalp doesn’t just flake — it reacts.

Scalp is an extension of your skin.

 

A different approach: supporting, not overpowering

Dermatological understanding is gradually shifting toward a more balanced approach:

• Gentle cleansing that does not strip natural oils
• Supporting the skin barrier
• Reducing unnecessary irritation
• Allowing the microbiome to rebalance

Because long-term improvement is not just about removing triggers —
it’s about helping the skin tolerate them again.

Overcleansing your scalp doesn't necessarily helps with your Seborrheic dermatitis.

Where Mulberry comes in

At Herbbies, this is the thinking behind the Mulberry Shampoo Bar.

Instead of focusing on stripping or over-treating,
it is designed to:

• Gently cleanse without disrupting the scalp barrier
• Support a calmer, more balanced environment
• Care for sensitive scalps, including those prone to seborrheic dermatitis

Mulberry has traditionally been used in East Asian herbal practices for its soothing properties, and modern studies suggest it contains antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds, including flavonoids (Munde et al. 2024)

Mulberry is rich in natural antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds, helping to calm scalp irritation while supporting a more balanced, resilient skin environment.

Sometimes, healing begins with doing less

If your scalp has been stuck in a cycle —
temporary relief, followed by recurring irritation —
it may not need something stronger.

It may need something gentler.
More consistent.
More aligned with how skin restores itself.

Because sometimes,
the most effective care is not about removing more —

but about restoring balance.

This is where we began when creating the Mulberry Shampoo Bar.
Not with the intention to correct aggressively,
but to offer a gentler way to cleanse — one that respects the scalp as skin.

Formulated to cleanse without stripping,
and enriched with mulberry to help calm and rebalance,
it’s designed for scalps that have been through a little too much.

A quieter kind of care —
one that supports your scalp, rather than working against it.