Sometimes when we read the ingredient list of products labeled “for eczema”, we feel a little confused.

Because quite often, those products still contain ingredients that dermatologists and eczema organizations recommend being cautious about — things like SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate), fragrance (parfum), and certain preservatives.

To be fair, this does not mean these ingredients are always unsafe. Many of them are widely used in cosmetics and approved by regulatory bodies.

But when your skin barrier is already fragile — as it often is in eczema — the story becomes more complicated.

Let’s explore why.

Understanding Eczema: A Skin Barrier That Needs Extra Care

Eczema (also called atopic dermatitis) is strongly linked to a weakened skin barrier.

The outermost layer of our skin — the stratum corneum — normally functions as a protective wall that keeps moisture in and irritants out. When this barrier is disrupted, skin becomes more vulnerable to environmental triggers and chemical irritants. (SELF)

That is why people with eczema often experience:

• Dryness
• Redness
• Itching
• Skin inflammation
• Increased sensitivity to skincare products

Because the barrier is compromised, substances that might feel harmless for healthy skin can sometimes trigger irritation or flare-ups in eczema-prone skin.

This is why ingredient choices matter so much.

Ingredient 1: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)

One of the most discussed ingredients in eczema care is sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS).

SLS is a surfactant — a cleansing ingredient commonly used in soaps, shampoos, and face washes to create foam and remove oils.

However, research has shown that SLS can irritate the skin barrier.

For example, dermatology research has demonstrated that people with eczema can show increased susceptibility to irritation from SLS exposure compared with individuals without eczema. (Click here for full text)

 

Eczema organizations also warn about it.

The National Eczema Society notes that aqueous cream containing SLS is no longer recommended as a leave-on moisturizer, because SLS can irritate the skin and potentially worsen eczema symptoms. (Click here for full text)

Why does this happen?

SLS can strip away natural skin lipids — the oils that help maintain the skin barrier. When these lipids are removed, skin may lose moisture more easily and become more reactive to external irritants.

For someone with eczema, this can mean more dryness and itch.

Ingredient 2: Fragrance (Parfum)

Fragrance is another ingredient commonly found in skincare — even in products marketed for sensitive skin.

From a product design perspective, fragrance has clear benefits:

• It improves sensory experience
• It masks the natural smell of raw ingredients
• It enhances the perception of luxury

But dermatology research consistently identifies fragrance as a common trigger for allergic contact dermatitis.

According to the National Eczema Association, fragrance ingredients are among the most frequent causes of allergic reactions in cosmetic products, accounting for 30–45% of reactions in cosmetic contact dermatitis cases. (Click here for full text)

For eczema-prone skin, fragrance can sometimes lead to:

• Stinging
• Redness
• Irritation
• Allergic reactions

This is why many dermatologists recommend choosing fragrance-free skincare when managing eczema.

We shall avoid using any product with perfume and fragrance on any eczema-prone skin. 

Ingredient 3: Certain Preservatives

Preservatives are another category that often raises questions.

They are actually very important in skincare because they prevent bacterial and fungal contamination, helping products remain safe to use.

However, some preservatives — particularly certain formaldehyde-releasing agents or isothiazolinones — are known triggers for skin irritation or allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. (Read more here)

This does not mean all preservatives are harmful.

Skincare products, particularly those with high water content, require preservatives to prevent microbial growth and ensure product safety.

But it does highlight why eczema-safe formulation often requires careful ingredient selection and sometimes avoiding preservatives known to cause higher rates of skin reactions.

 

We find it difficult to understand why parabens (i.e. Methylparaben, Propylparaben) still appear in a lotion formulated for eczema-prone skin. 

Why Do Brands Still Use These Ingredients?

This is an important question.

The reality is that these ingredients are widely used because they make products easier to formulate.

For example:

SLS

• Creates rich foam
• Cleans effectively
• Very inexpensive

Fragrance

• Improves the sensory experience
• Masks unpleasant raw ingredient smells

Certain preservatives

• Stabilize formulas
• Extend shelf life
• Prevent microbial growth

From a manufacturing standpoint, these ingredients are practical and efficient.

That’s why they appear so frequently in the skincare industry.

 

A Different Philosophy: Prioritizing Skin Barrier Kindness

At Herbbies, we approach formulation from a slightly different perspective.

Our starting question is simple:

“If someone’s skin is already struggling, what is the kindest formula we can create?”

Sometimes that means making different choices.

It might mean:

• Avoiding ingredients that commonly irritate sensitive skin
• Choosing gentler surfactants
• Leaving out fragrance entirely
• Keeping ingredient lists simpler

And sometimes, it means accepting that the product might feel a little different.

Maybe it foams less.

Maybe it smells more natural.

Maybe it prioritizes comfort over cosmetics.

But for fragile skin, we believe that gentleness matters more than sensation.

The Goal Isn’t Perfection — It’s Thoughtful Care

It’s important to say this clearly:

Not everyone with eczema reacts to the same ingredients.

Eczema is complex and highly individual.

What works well for one person may not work for another.

But dermatologists and eczema organizations generally agree on one thing:
reducing exposure to common irritants can help protect the skin barrier.

And for people whose skin is already struggling, sometimes small formulation decisions can make a meaningful difference.

 

A Simple Principle We Try to Follow

Herbbies began with a simple intention:

To create skincare that is kind to skin when it needs it most.

That means paying attention to ingredient choices.

And sometimes, yes — being a little stubborn about them.

Because when skin is already inflamed, itchy, and vulnerable, the least skincare can do is be gentle.